Introduction
In textiles and garment construction, seams play an important role in both the functionality and aesthetics of a finished product. A seam is a line where two or more layers of fabric are joined together using stitching. It not only holds the fabric pieces in place but also contributes to the overall design, fit, and durability of the garment. The type of seam used can significantly impact the strength, flexibility, and appearance of the final product.
What is seam?
A seam is essentially the line or junction where two or more pieces of fabric are joined together by sewing. This joining is accomplished through the application of a series of stitches, which can vary in type depending on the desired strength, flexibility, or decorative effect. These stitches are applied to one or more layers of fabric, depending on the design or function of the garment or textile product. The seam not only holds the fabric pieces together but also plays a crucial role in the overall structure, durability, and appearance of the final product.
Seam classification
Seam class – 1 : Super imposed seam
• Most commonly used seam.
• This type of seam is formed by correctly placing the ends of fabric on the other ends of the fabric and sewn.
• Same direction of sewn end or ends of the fabric.
• Variety stitch types used.
• This seam can be used for both joining the fabric.
• Can be used for both joining the fabrics and neatening the edges.
• Seam strength may be changed.
• Uses: Mostly used in side seam, like as shirts and pants.
Seam class – 2: Lapped seam
• Two sewn ends of the fabric are in opposite direction and overlapping one ends on other.
• High seam strength.
• The sewn thread may be damaged due to frictional resistance.
• Possibility of seam slippage is very less.
• Seam thickness increased.
• Discomfort when worn.
• Twin needle sewn m/c is used to prepare seam.
• Uses: Used for jeans.
Seam class – 3: Bound seam
• The seam consists of an edge of fabric bounded by another.
• The binder fabric may be of different colors.
• Extensively used.
• Can be applied for both functional and decorative purposes.
• Twin needle sewn m/c is used to prepare bound seam.
• Used mostly in knit fabric than woven.
• Uses: Under wear, guernsey, pants, ladies garments, slipping suit etc. & function and decorative purpose.
Seam class – 4: Flat seam
• Two or more fabrics ends are joined without overlapping.
• Seam can be made with gap of two ends of the fabric for decorative purposes.
• Twin needle sewing m/c is used to produce seam.
• Edge should be cleaned before sewing to avoid fraying.
• Seam thickness is comparatively less.
• Neat join forms.
• Zigzag stitch causes sufficient stretch for knit fabric.
• Uses: Extensively used in undergarments and in knit wear.
Seam class – 5: Decorative seam
• This type of seam is made by making one or more adjacent stitch lines in one or more layer of fabric.
• Multi -needle sewing m/c is used to produce seam.
• This type of seam is called Decorative stitching.
• This seam is produced and used to increase the beauty or decorative value of fabric.
Seam class – 6: Edge neatening
• This type of seam is used to bind the edge of fabric so that the thread cannot draw off.
• Various stitches are used to make this type of seam.
• It can be made by over lock m/c.
• Extensively used in knitted garments & hemming.
• If folder is used, the seam can be made easily.
Seam class – 7
• Similar to lapped seam, but the joined component is extended limited on both sides from sewn line.
• This is used for joining of different parts of garments with additional/extra thing as lace, elastic braid, and elastic.
Seam class – 8
• Mainly one piece of fabric used.
• The edges of the fabric are sewn by folding in various ways.
• Very used of folder to make seam.
• Seam is made in one time completed by twine needle m/c and folder.
• Belt and belt loops can be made by this seam.
Conclusion
Seams are fundamental to garment construction, providing both structural integrity and aesthetic appeal. Understanding the various types of seams allows for better decision-making in fabric selection and garment design. Each seam type offers unique benefits, whether it’s for strength, flexibility, or a clean finish.
References
- Garment Manufacturing Technology, Edited by Rajkishore Nayak and Rajiv Padhye, Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles
- Apparel Manufacturing Technology by D. Gopalakrishnan, P. Ganesan, and T. Karthik, CRE Press.
- Garment Manufacturing: Processes, Practices and Technology Kindle Edition, Prasanta Sarkar
- Gurarda, A. (2019). Seam performance of garments. In Textile Manufacturing Processes. IntechOpen.
T Islam
Researcher, Educator, Mentor