Introduction
Seams are fundamental to garment manufacturing, significantly impacting overall garment quality. The types of seams and stitches used play a key role in the appearance and durability of the final product. It is essential to choose appropriate stitch and seam types, along with their parameters, based on the specific garment and fabric type. The appearance and performance of seams are influenced by these choices, as well as by potential seam defects and damages. Additionally, the seam performance of a garment is closely linked to the fabric’s structural and mechanical properties, as well as the seam strength, extensibility, security, durability, and efficiency.
What is seam?
The line of joining fabric is called Seam. The main purpose of sewing is to produce a seam of standard quality level with better appearance, performance. The line of joining fabric is called Seam.
Most important requirements of seam
Seam performance
Seam strength: Seam strength should be lower or equal to fabric strength. If seam strength is higher than fabric strength, then the fabric may be break due to unexpected force to the fabric. Seam strength depends on: Strength of thread used, unbalanced stitch, stitch density, seam type, and size of stitches.
Elasticity: Seam elasticity should be equal or higher than that of fabric. Otherwise seam may be opened by breaking of sewn thread in seam. Some fabrics or garments may be stretched of 100% or more. Seam elasticity varies if the fabric is knitted or woven.
Durability: Durability of seam should be equal or higher than that of fabric. Special seam should not be damaged or tear due to friction during using and cleaning.
Comfort: The seam of the garments example shorts, Guernsey, bra, etc. Adhere to the body adjacently, must be such that not create any problem while using.
Security: Must be requires security of not seam opening due to sudden seam thread opening or breaking at normal case while garment using otherwise may be create imperfect condition.
Special properties:
i. Water proof: To make a garments totally water proof the holes made by needles must be closed by tap or other methods so that water cannot penetrate inside the garments. Water proof properties gives better result if the seam is made by alternative method example – welding method.
ii. Fire proof: Fire proof garments must be constructed with seam thread which is fire proof otherwise this property may be damaged.
Seam appearance
Seam appearance should have the following properties: Satisfactory, defect free stitch, defect free seam, expected i.e. no fold of fabric along the fabric, and free from seam pucker.
Most important factors that affect the seam properties
Seam type: This is a particular configuration of fabric as required.
Stitch type: Most important point which is a particular configuration of thread in the fabric.
Feed mechanism of sewing m/c: This is the mechanism by which the fabric moves past the needles and enable a succession of stitches to be formed.
Needle size and type: The thread size and type should be chosen according to the seam properties required i.e. flame proof water proof etc.
Thread size and type: The thread size and type should be chosen according to the seam properties required i.e. flame proof, water proof.
Conclusion
Seams are essential in garment manufacturing, significantly influencing the quality and appearance of the final product. The performance of seams depends on factors such as stitch and seam types, as well as various parameters like stitch density, width, length, and seam strength. The structural and mechanical properties of the fabric also play a crucial role in determining seam performance, affecting aspects like durability, extensibility, and efficiency. Testing seam strength and efficiency is important to evaluate the impact of sewing parameters on the garment’s overall performance. Additionally, factors like needle penetration force and sewing-related damage can negatively affect seam efficiency and garment quality.
References
- Garment Manufacturing Technology, Edited by Rajkishore Nayak and Rajiv Padhye, Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles
- Apparel Manufacturing Technology by D. Gopalakrishnan, P. Ganesan, and T. Karthik, CRE Press.
- Garment Manufacturing: Processes, Practices and Technology Kindle Edition, Prasanta Sarkar
- Gurarda, A. (2019). Seam performance of garments. In Textile Manufacturing Processes. IntechOpen.
T Islam
Researcher, Educator, Mentor