Introduction
In the realm of sewing and textile creation, stitches form the foundation of all fabric constructions. A stitch is the basic unit of sewing, created when a needle passes through the fabric, looping the thread to form a link between fabric pieces. Stitches can be used to join fabrics, add decorative elements, or finish the edges of materials. The type of stitch chosen can greatly influence the strength, elasticity, and appearance of the final product, making an understanding of different stitch types essential for any sewing project.
What is Stitch?
Loop or loops of one or more threads when bounds with each other, either by interlacing, interloping, intra-looping or combination of those when sewing fabric, each unit of such configuration is called stitch.
Interlacing
During stitching when one loop of one thread passes over another loop of another thread is called interlacing.
Inter-looping
When loop of one thread passes through the loop of another thread is called inter-looping.
Intra-looping
When a loop of one thread passes through the loop of same thread during sewing is called intra-looping.
Classification of stitch class
Stitch class – 100: Single thread chain stitch
• Stitches are formed by intra-looping.
• One or more needle thread is used for stitch formation.
• Security of stitch is very poor. In case of breakage of one stitch, it unravels very easily.
• Temporary joining, positioning, basting, hemming, blind stitch, button holing, button attaching purposes.
• Temporary joining i.e. collar positioning, flap positioning.
• Used for gathered appearance.
Stitch class – 200: Hand stitch
• Looks like domestic hand stitch.
• It is produced from single thread.
• Needle thread is passed from one side to another side in the fabric and makes a sewn line.
• This stitch is made by special type of needle and sewing m/c.
• Very rare used of stitch class – 200 in the garments manufacturing unit due to higher cost and limited length of sewing.
• Time consuming operation.
• Used by special type of needle and sewing m/c.
Stitch class – 300: Lock stitch
• At least two groups of threads are required.
• One group of thread is called needle thread and another group of thread is called bobbin thread.
• Stitch type 301 is the most common among 300 class.
• A diagram of 301 is shown.
• Sufficient strength is observed in stitch type 301.
• Extensibility is around 30%.
• Appearance of lock stitch is similar in both sides of the fabric.
• Stitches are secured and security of stitch could be increased by back tacking at starting and finishing ends.
• Abrasion resistance of lock stitch better as because the stitches are embedded in the fabric.
• Stitch type 304 is zigzag type, used for attaching lace, garment, and elastic.
• The main problem of lock stitch is the lower capacity of bobbin thread requires frequent bobbin thread changing.
• Not suitable for knit fabric sewing.
• Used for general sewing both for domestic sewing m/c and industrial uses.
• General purpose: sewing, joining different components during garments making, top stitching etc. purpose.
• Extensively used in sewing and fabric attachment as pocket, collar, cuff, facing etc.
• Used in top stitching, button holing, button attaching, blind stitching etc.
Stitch class – 400: Multi thread chain stitch
• Stitches are formed by two or more groups of threads.
• One group is called needle thread and another is called looper thread.
• Threads are bound together by interlacing and inter-looping.
• Stitch type – 401 is the most common among 400 class.
• Looks like lock stitch at the top side and double chain at the under.
• Multi thread chain stitch is also called double locked stitch.
• Strength of 401 is higher than 301.
• Possibility of seam pucker formation in 401 is less than 301.
• Looper thread (under thread) is supplied from cone hence time is less in 400 class.
• Extensibility is same as Lock stitch.
• Needs not back tacking at starting and finishing ends to secure the stitch ends of thread to be left.
• Chain stitch is formed at lower thread tension hence stitches could be formed at higher speed. E.g. 8000 S.P.M. (Lock stitch at 6000 S.P.M.).
• Used for long length sewing, heavy fabric sewing attaching lace, braid, elastic etc.
Stitch class – 500: Over edge stitch
• Stitches are formed by two or more groups of threads.
• At least one group of thread passes around cut end of the fabric.
• Fraying is stopped by the stitches of 500 class.
• Just before stitch formation fabric end is cut by a knife to prepare edge neatening seam.
• It is also called over lock stitch.
• Stitch type – 504 is shown in the Figure, formed by one needle thread and two looper thread.
• Extensibility of over edge stitch is higher (may be up to 30%).
• Width of stitch may vary from 3 to 5 mm.
• At the starting and finishing ends few inches thread to be left.
• It is also used for decoration of fabric end.
• It is also used in combination with lock stitch and chain stitch side by side.
• Extensively used for knit fabric sewing.
• Also used for fabric sewing of denim, jeans, cord etc.
Stitch class – 600: Covering chain stitch
• Stitches under 600 class are formed by three groups of threads.
• One group is called needle thread and other is called top cover thread and the other group is called bottom cover thread.
• Stitches under this group are very complex and may need up to 9 threads.
• Stitches type 602 is shown in the Figure.
• 606 is used for making knitted undergarments.
• 602 is used for attaching tape, lace, elastic to knit fabric.
• Also used for decorative purpose.
Conclusion
Each stitch class serves a specific purpose, whether for joining fabric, adding flexibility, or enhancing the garment’s appearance. A thorough understanding of these stitch classes allows for the selection of the most appropriate stitch for any sewing project, ensuring both the functionality and aesthetic quality of the finished product
References
- Garment Manufacturing Technology, Edited by Rajkishore Nayak and Rajiv Padhye, Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles
- Apparel Manufacturing Technology by D. Gopalakrishnan, P. Ganesan, and T. Karthik, CRE Press.
- Garment Manufacturing: Processes, Practices and Technology Kindle Edition, Prasanta Sarkar
T Islam
Researcher, Educator, Mentor